“Since I began designing, models have been the ultimate inspiration for designers and editors in the fashion industry. Unfortunately, India has lost the era of supermodels over the years,” laments fashion designer Ridhi Mehra.
In her 10-year journey as a fashion designer, Ridhi Mehra has collaborated with numerous celebrity showstoppers. However, she continues to recognize the pivotal role of models in her collections, describing them as the “highlight.” As a tribute to the “OG Showstoppers,” Mehra launched her AW 2023 campaign, titled “The ICONS,” featuring supermodels Indrani Dasgupta, Ujjwala Raut, Carol Gracias, Archana Akil Kumar, and Kanishtha Dhankhar. This collection honors the “legendary faces of the modeling world” and presents them in a unique light.
In a candid conversation with indianexpress.com, Ridhi Mehra discusses her decade-long journey in the industry, her experiences working with supermodels, her latest creations, the significance of showstoppers, and the aspect of inclusivity in the Indian fashion industry. Here are the edited excerpts:
You completed a decade in the industry last year. How would you describe this journey?
Ridhi Mehra: A decade of Label Ridhi Mehra is a significant milestone, filled with intense emotions. It brings forth a wave of joy, pride, and exhilaration as I reflect on this beautiful journey of my brand. Contributing to the narrative of Indian fashion for a decade, with a creative vision I have nurtured over the years, is immensely gratifying. The label was founded with the intention of introducing affordable luxury to the Indian fashion scene and making it accessible to the masses. After 10 years, I can confidently say that, along with my incredible team, we have successfully achieved our goals. A decade of designing has been deeply fulfilling, with its share of challenges and learning experiences, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.
Our journey began with our first collection in 2012, and we have continued to evolve since then. Today, we launch 7-8 collections each year, catering to various seasons, occasions, and moods. I take immense pride in the fact that we are now celebrating our 10th anniversary, still thriving and advancing toward a promising future. I am genuinely grateful and optimistic, looking forward to many more decades of milestones in this journey.
Considering the fiercely competitive nature of the Indian fashion industry, what challenges have you faced in sustaining your brand? What advice would you offer to those entering the industry?
Mehra: I believe that constant innovation, hard work, and perseverance are key to sustaining oneself in this industry.
Tell us about your latest collection: The Era. What inspired you to pay homage to the supermodels of yesteryears?
Mehra: My vision for “The Era” collection was very classic, and it immediately led me to the iconic divas of fashion. From the beginning of my design journey, models have always been the perfect muses for designers and fashion editors. However, over the years, the era of supermodels sadly faded in India. I genuinely believe that Indrani Dasgupta, Ujjwala Raut, Carol Gracias, Archana Akil Kumar, and Kanistha Dhankhar put India on the global fashion map. The ICONS AW 23 campaign is my tribute to these OG Showstoppers. For me, these five women epitomize strength, grace, perseverance, and extraordinary talent.
They were my inspiration for this collection. Every silhouette, cut, and color was influenced by what would complement their style. We seamlessly merged their unique style with our design sensibility to create this collection. Gautam Kalra played a pivotal role in styling the ensembles, bringing the entire vision to life. I view ICONS as more than just a collection; it’s a promise first and foremost, made to inspire and enchant. It’s a tribute, a heartfelt ode to the timeless phenomenon known as feminine grace.
Have you collaborated with any of these models in the past?
Mehra: Yes, I have had the pleasure of collaborating with Kanishtha on several occasions in the past. Working with Indrani, Ujjwala, Carol, and Archana was a delightful first-time experience, and I thoroughly enjoyed collaborating with these graceful yet strong women.
In your press release, you raise the question of whether, in the age of celebrity showstoppers, models have been overlooked. However, you have also had many celebrities walk the runway for you. How would you respond if someone posed the same question to you?
Mehra: While celebrities receive more attention due to their wider reach, I believe that models have not been forgotten. They continue to be in demand for runway shows, campaigns, editorial shoots, and remain the face of various brands, playing a crucial role in the fashion industry. Interestingly, many of the celebrities we admire today started their careers as models and walked the runway. Celebrities have indeed graced my runway shows, but models have always been the focal point of my collections.
You used the term ‘unsung’ to describe your muses. Who, in your opinion, is responsible for them not receiving the credit they deserve?
Mehra: We used the term ‘unsung’ to describe our muses because we have observed a recent shift towards emphasizing glamour and celebrities in the fashion industry. I don’t believe there is a specific individual to blame for their lack of recognition. Instead, it’s a natural evolution where certain aspects receive more attention while others may take a backseat. We are proud that we have consistently maintained a balance between highlighting celebrities and giving due recognition to these models.
How (and why) is a showstopper important? How do they add to a show? And how different is it when it is a celebrity vs. a model?
Mehra: A showstopper plays a crucial role in a fashion show, whether it’s a celebrity or a model. They embody the essence of the collection, adding allure and drama to the runway. Their presence heightens anticipation, transforming the runway into a dynamic stage. Showstoppers create excitement and generate buzz, expanding the brand’s visibility.
The difference between celebrities and models as showstoppers lies in their impact. Celebrities bring glamour, a personal connection with the audience, and media attention, enhancing the show’s appeal and reach. Their star power resonates with their fans, creating lasting associations with the collection. On the other hand, models showcase the craftsmanship and design finesse, directing the audience’s focus toward the intricate details of the garments. Their expertise ensures a seamless presentation, allowing the designs to take center stage. The choice between a celebrity or a model as a showstopper depends on the show’s objective: whether it aims to leverage celebrity allure or emphasize artistic expression.
Did it take a long time to convince the supermodels to participate in your campaign, or were they eager and willing?
Mehra: The idea was so exciting that it didn’t take us very long to convince the supermodels. While there may have been initial reservations from some, others were very enthusiastic about the project. We are delighted that it all came together so successfully, and the campaign received such a tremendous response.
As you rightly pointed out, models have always been an integral part of the runway. However, the fashion industry has often faced criticism for not being as welcoming to models, sparking debates about inclusivity. How does the Indian fashion industry fare in terms of inclusivity? Would you say it is inclusive in all aspects?
Mehra: In recent years, the Indian fashion industry has taken steps towards inclusivity by featuring models of varying body types, skin tones, and backgrounds on the runway. Designers are increasingly recognizing the importance of reflecting the diversity of their customer base, and some have made conscious efforts to showcase collections that cater to a wider range of individuals. However, certain challenges remain. The industry’s historical preference for specific beauty ideals can sometimes limit the representation of models who don’t conform to those norms. Like any other industry, the Indian fashion industry must navigate the fine line between appreciation and appropriation and ensure that it uplifts cultures rather than commodifying them.
Lastly, what can we expect in terms of fashion trends for this season?
Mehra: This season, we can expect brighter colors like red and fuchsia, along with a lot of glistening gold and champagne, especially with the festive season approaching. Chic and comfortable silhouettes are a must, featuring trends like pantsuits, dramatic capes, and pre-draped sarees.